Glossary · Molecule

Ambrettolide

Ambrettolide (CAS 123-69-3) is a macrocyclic musk derived from ambrette seed oil (Abelmoschus moschatus), characterized by a soft, animalic, slightly floral and fruity musky quality widely used as a skin-close base note in fine fragrance (IFRA ingredient data, accessed 2026-05-27).

Technical detail

Macrocyclic musks are a class of synthetic molecules with ring structures of fifteen or more carbons. They are prized for their naturalness, biodegradability, and skin-close diffusion compared to polycyclic and nitromusks. Ambrettolide has a distinctly animalic, warm, musky, and subtly fruity profile that reads closer to natural animal musks than most synthetic alternatives (Perfumer & Flavorist, accessed 2026-05-27).

Ambrette seed itself is obtained from the seeds of Abelmoschus moschatus, a hibiscus-family plant grown primarily in India and Central America. The seed oil is rich in ambrettolide and related macrocyclic compounds. In contemporary niche perfumery, ambrettolide is valued as a clean, skin-enhancing musk that avoids the controversies associated with nitromusks (several of which are restricted by IFRA due to phototoxicity) (IFRA standards, accessed 2026-05-27).

Examples

  • Used extensively in skin-scent and "quiet luxury" musky compositions in niche perfumery.
  • Musc Ravageur (Frederic Malle, 2000, Maurice Roucel): a landmark musky oriental where macrocyclic musks including ambrettolide contribute the animalic base warmth.
  • Frequently blended with ambroxan and Habanolide in clean musk accords.

Sources

Published 2026-05-27 · Updated 2026-05-27 · Last fact check: 2026-05-27 · Osmetheca