Definition
A captive, or captive molecule, is a synthetic odorant molecule developed and patented by a major fragrance house, also called an aroma chemical supplier. For the duration of the patent, typically fifteen to twenty years, its use is reserved for the in-house perfumers of the group that invented it. Once the patent expires, the molecule becomes available to the broader industry, including independent and niche perfumers.
Origin and history
The captive model took hold with the rise of aroma chemistry in the twentieth century. IFF synthesized Iso E Super in 1973, which remained captive until the early 2000s. Firmenich patented Hedione in 1962, first used by Edmond Roudnitska in Dior's Eau Sauvage that same year (source: Wikipedia).
The seven leading composition houses, IFF, Givaudan, Firmenich, Symrise, Mane, Robertet and Takasago, now manage captive portfolios that form a central competitive advantage (source: Perfumer & Flavorist).
Use in perfumery
A captive gives its parent house a recognizable signature for the length of exclusivity. For niche perfumery, the real interest lies at the end of captivity. When Iso E Super entered general use in the mid-2000s, Geza Schoen launched Molecule 01 at Escentric Molecules in 2006, an eau de toilette built around that single molecule (source: Wikipedia).
Other notable captives are Cashmeran (IFF), Ambroxan (Firmenich, long held as semi-captive) and the biotech woods Clearwood and Akigalawood (Firmenich).