Glossary · Composition

Heart Note

A heart note (middle note) is the dominant olfactive phase of a fragrance that emerges after the initial top notes have evaporated, forming the emotional core of the composition and typically lasting 30 minutes to several hours on skin (ISIPCA teaching materials, accessed 2026-05-27).

Definition

The heart note is the second stage of a fragrance's development on skin. In the classical olfactive pyramid, the three layers are: top notes (fast-evaporating, 15-30 minutes), heart notes (30 minutes to 4 hours), and base notes (the lasting dry-down). Heart notes contain the materials most responsible for the fragrance's stated character: a "rose fragrance" reveals its rose heart after the citrus top has dissolved (Société Française des Parfumeurs, accessed 2026-05-27).

Typical heart note materials include floral absolutes (jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, iris), spices (cinnamon, cardamom, pepper), aromatic herbs (lavender, geranium, clary sage), and green notes.

In composition

The olfactive pyramid (top / heart / base) is a useful conceptual model but not an absolute law of composition: many modern niche perfumes are structured as "linear" or "abstract" compositions where the classical pyramid hierarchy is de-emphasized. Jean-Claude Ellena, for example, is known for architectures without a traditional strong base, where the heart extends throughout the wear.

The heart is the phase that most often determines a fragrance's classification within an olfactive family: a chypre heart (oakmoss, rose, jasmine) identifies the family regardless of top and base variations (Fragrantica, accessed 2026-05-27).

Sources

Published 2026-05-27 · Updated 2026-05-27 · Last fact check: 2026-05-27 · Osmetheca