Papillon Artisan Perfumes

History of the house

Papillon Artisan Perfumes was founded in 2014 by Liz Moores, a British self-taught perfumer based in Dorset (England, United Kingdom). The house operates as a one-person studio, where Liz Moores composes, blends and bottles each fragrance herself. She has signed the entire catalogue from the first releases onward, with no co-author and no recourse to an external composer (papillonperfumery.co.uk About, Fragrantica designer page, Basenotes interview, accessed 2026-05-23).

Liz Moores is a self-taught perfumer. She never trained at ISIPCA in Versailles (France) and never worked in-house at a major fragrance composition company such as Givaudan or Firmenich. Her entry into perfumery is publicly documented: she came to composition after an earlier career in massage therapy, where she blended essential oils for clients, and from there moved into independent study of natural and synthetic raw materials. She has discussed this path in interviews on Basenotes, Fragrantica and Kafkaesque (Basenotes IM Chat with Liz Moores, Fragrantica Exclusive Interview, Kafkaesque interview Part I, accessed 2026-05-23).

The public launch took place in 2014 with an inaugural trio: Anubis, Angelique and Tobacco Rose. The three perfumes were received favorably by specialist fragrance criticism, particularly by the blogs Now Smell This, Bois de Jasmin, Kafkaesque and Persolaise, which highlighted the density of the natural raw materials and the coherence of a recognizable signature from the very first releases. A fourth perfume, Salome, followed in 2015 and rapidly became the most discussed composition of the catalogue for its openly animalic character (Now Smell This Salome review June 2015, Kafkaesque Salome review, Persolaise, accessed 2026-05-23).

The house claims a perfumery built on a heavy use of classical raw materials, including rose, jasmine, oud, myrrh, frankincense, oakmoss, amber and synthetic civet, alongside vintage-coded animalic notes such as hyrax and castoreum. Liz Moores has cited pre-1990 chypres and orientals as editorial references in several interviews, and the writing of the house consciously echoes a European vintage tradition associated with Guerlain, Caron, Robert Piguet and Rochas. That avowed lineage distinguishes Papillon within the contemporary English-language niche landscape (Fragrantica Exclusive Interview, Kafkaesque interview, accessed 2026-05-23).

The house has remained structurally single-author. Liz Moores is the only perfumer, the only signatory, and the direct interface between the product and the buyer. The catalogue has expanded slowly, by single annual launches rather than seasonal collections: Dryad in 2017, Bengale Rouge in 2019, Spell 125 in 2021 and Hera in 2022. Papillon sells directly from the official site papillonperfumery.co.uk and through a restricted network of niche specialist retailers, including Bloom Perfumery in London (United Kingdom) and Luckyscent in Los Angeles (United States) (papillonperfumery.co.uk, Fragrantica designer page, Basenotes house profile, accessed 2026-05-23).

Olfactive signature

Papillon practices a naturals-heavy artisan perfumery, built on the classical materials of the perfumer's palette: rose, jasmine, oud, myrrh, frankincense, oakmoss, amber, labdanum, tobacco, immortelle, hay, hyrax, synthetic civet and castoreum. Liz Moores works at eau de parfum concentration, with dense compositions and long longevity, where the richness in absolutes and resins remains an immediate marker (papillonperfumery.co.uk About, Bois de Jasmin reviews, Basenotes interview, accessed 2026-05-23).

The house claims a lineage with vintage and classical perfumery: oakmoss chypres from before the stricter IFRA framework, resinous orientals in the Caron tradition, aldehydic florals from the Guerlain and Chanel decades. That historical inspiration translates into complete architectures, opening on bright top notes, structured by a floral or resinous heart, and held by an animalic or balsamic base. Salome (2015) has been compared by English-language critics to the animalic chypres of the 1970s and 1980s, and Tobacco Rose (2014) draws on the honeyed rose tobacco accords of mid-century European perfumery.

Three stylistic axes structure the catalogue. The first is the animalic chypre axis, which reframes the classical chypre architecture around openly animalic materials, exemplified by Salome (2015) and Angelique (2014). The second is the resinous smoky oriental axis, anchored by Anubis (2014) with its suede, myrrh, frankincense and saffron accord. The third is the rose-driven floral axis, illustrated by Tobacco Rose (2014) and later extended by Hera (2022) toward a white floral powdery reading.

The other signature marker is the editorial consistency of a single hand. Liz Moores signs every Papillon perfume, with no co-signature, no external composer and no expansion toward marketing-driven olfactive families. The catalogue contains no contemporary sugary gourmand and no clean musky woody composition designed for mass appeal. This unity of authorship gives the catalogue an editorial readability that is rare in current independent niche perfumery.

An artisan perfume house held by a single self-taught perfumer, where each release openly claims an attachment to the European vintage tradition.

Key characteristics

Notable perfumes

The Papillon catalogue brings together roughly a dozen compositions signed by Liz Moores since 2014. The following eight releases are independently documented on the official site, Fragrantica, Parfumo and Basenotes, with consistent attribution and launch year across the four sources.

Anubis (2014), built around suede, myrrh, olibanum, saffron, immortelle, jasmine and pink lotus, is widely presented as the founding statement of the Liz Moores writing. Salome (2015), an animalic floral chypre composed of hyrax, jasmine, carnation, tobacco, Turkish rose, orange blossom, castoreum, cumin, oakmoss, hay, styrax, patchouli, birch and vanilla, drew critical attention for its openly carnal density and is the most reviewed Papillon release in English-language fragrance criticism. Tobacco Rose (2014) structures a honeyed rose tobacco accord of clearly classical inspiration, and Hera (2022), a rich white floral with jasmine, rose, narcissus, orange blossom and iris absolutes, extends the floral side of the catalogue toward a powdery contemporary writing.

The house today

Papillon Artisan Perfumes remains an independent house, with no acquisition by a luxury group and no external investor publicly documented to date. The company trades under the name Papillon Perfumery, and Liz Moores retains full editorial and operational control. Production stays in the Dorset studio, in small batches, with no industrial outsourcing of blending or filtration (papillonperfumery.co.uk, Basenotes interview, accessed 2026-05-23).

The house has built a cult reputation within the international niche perfumery community, with consistent coverage on Now Smell This, Bois de Jasmin, Kafkaesque, Persolaise and Basenotes since the inaugural trio. Salome, Anubis and Dryad are regularly cited in year-end best-of lists by English-language fragrance critics, and Papillon is one of the few British artisan houses to be referenced alongside continental European independents such as Tauer Perfumes, Slumberhouse and Mona di Orio in editorial comparisons of single-author niche perfumery (Persolaise reviews, Bois de Jasmin reviews, Kafkaesque, accessed 2026-05-23).

Distribution remains deliberately limited. Direct sales operate from papillonperfumery.co.uk, while physical retail is concentrated in a small number of niche specialist stores, including Bloom Perfumery in London (United Kingdom) and Luckyscent in Los Angeles (United States). Release pace is slow, with annual or biennial launches rather than seasonal flankers, and several editions have been produced in restricted runs. This rhythm anchors the cult artisan positioning the house has held since its founding.

Frequently asked questions

See also