Glossary · Materials and sourcing

Rosewood sourcing

Amazonian rosewood (Aniba rosaeodora) has been listed on CITES Appendix II since 2011 and rated endangered by the IUCN since 1998. Sourcing now relies on strict permits, Ho wood and synthetic linalool.

Definition

Rosewood sourcing describes the supply practices for Aniba rosaeodora, an Amazonian tree also known as pau-rosa or Brazilian rosewood, native to Brazil, Peru and Colombia. Its essential oil, 60-80% linalool, served for decades as a base note in fine fragrance and as a feedstock for industrial linalool isolation (source: FAO). Intense logging through the twentieth century pushed wild populations into collapse.

Regulatory status

Aniba rosaeodora has been listed as Endangered by the IUCN since 1998. At CITES CoP15 in 2010, the species was added to Appendix II of CITES, with entry into force in 2011 (source: CITES CoP15 Prop. 37). International trade now requires export permits, and Brazil regulates domestic production through IBAMA. A few houses, including Chanel, maintain certified use under permits and partner plantations.

Alternatives in perfumery

Since 2011, perfumery has shifted to two dominant substitutes. Ho wood (Cinnamomum camphora, linalool chemotype), cultivated in China and Japan, delivers a close profile at industrial yields (source: Givaudan). Synthetic linalool, produced at scale by Givaudan and BASF, secures global volumes. Modern pyramids that list "rosewood" almost always refer to one of these two routes, unlike vintage archive sheets.

Sources

Published 4 June 2026 · Updated 4 June 2026 · Last fact check: 4 June 2026 · The Osmetheca Editorial Team